Free float handguard, I used a Trinity Force Atlas 15″ Keymod handguard. Low-profile gasblock (for any handguard that covers the gas block area) – I used a Trinity Force 0.75″ low-profile gas block. In addition to the parts, you’ll also need some tools. Preview of the Samson Evolution Free Float Tube and the link to the Samson Manufacture Video where they used my personal rifle to show the Connecticut compl. Firearm Discussion and Resources from AR-15, AK-47, Handguns and more! Buy, Sell, and Trade your Firearms and Gear. I was looking for a free-float AR handguard that was easy on the hand and easy to install. The Samson EVO Rail fits the bill. You still have to get the barrel nut off, but beyond that, no problems. You can put the included rail section where you need them. It brought my groups on an M&P AR 15 from 4 inches to a quarter size circle at 75 yards.

Samson Free Float Rail Installation

Recently, we were able to sample some Midwest Industries Gen2 SS Series Rails. These are one piece free float handguards. They have a very slim profile, and remind me somewhat of the Samson Evolution Rail, but slimmer. Now I'll admit, I've never been impressed with Midwest Industries. Their previous rails did not blow me away. However, this rail has changed my views for the better.
Thanks to Stickman for providing the pictures.
From the Midwest Industries website:
-Super slim 1.5 inch outside diameter and incredibly lightweight
-Modular design, includes three additional 2.5 inch rail sections - one rail section includes an anti-rotational QD socket - the 3 modular rail sections add 2.5 ounces.
-High quality MIL-STD 1913 top rail, T-marked for accessory location
-Constructed from 6061 aluminum, hard coat anodized for a lifetime of service
-All parts are fully dehorned for non-abrasive, comfortable feel
-Proprietary Barrel Nut, Barrel Nut Wrench and Bipod Stud Included
-Some minor gunsmithing required
-100% Made in the USA with Lifetime Warranty
Today we are going to install a 15' Midwest SS rail on a 16' Centurion Arms Barrel. Since this is a one piece design, you will have to remove your gas block as well as your muzzle device. Pretty standard when installing one piece free floating rails. This also uses a proprietary barrel nut, so the standard barrel nut has to come off as well. Once all the pieces are off, we can get started. The kit also includes a barrel nut wrench for easier installation.
First we slide the proprietary barrel nut over the barrel and thread it onto the upper.
You'll notice that the Midwest barrel nut threads on with the 'teeth' side closest to the receiver, unlike your standard barrel nut that has the 'teeth' side away from the receiver.
Once the barrel nut is threaded on, you'll want to torque the barrel nut to 30-60 ft-lbs. I always start at 30 ft-lbs, and then of course increase as needed to 'time' the teeth so the gas tube can pass through the upper receiver. In this case, we got lucky, and 30 ft-lbs managed to align the tube.
Once that's done, install the gas block and tube.
You can now slide the rail over the barrel.
You will notice that the two notches on either side of the rail, will line up with the barrel nut.
After you install the rails, and line up the notches to the barrel nut, install the 2 screws on the bottom of the rail. The screws should be torqued to 35 in-lbs. *INCH POUNDS NOT FT LBS*
Reinstall your muzzle device, We have a Battle Comp 2.0 here, and you're done. Make sure your firearm is assembled correctly and function test.
Although, I've had limited time with the rail so far, it's blown me away. The weight, ease of installation, and price point, this rail is a winner so far.

Samson Free Float Rail Installers

I recently began gathering parts to build a mid-length upper using a modular free-float rail and retaining the standard A2 front sight post inside a cutout. I was primarily interested in an extended rail with the possibility of mounting a handstop underneath the FSP and a light at 10' next to the FSP with the gas block covered. After several weeks of searching repeatedly, the answer I kept coming back to was that there were very few options for this particular build type, and not many documented cases out there to look at for comparison. Numerous traditional quad rails fit this description, Daniel Defense, Centurion and the like. But I've had those and done that and was ready to try something lighter. Further, I have never found the necessity for all that rail space. It's useless weight for my rifle's operation.
I settled on the Samson Evolution EX 9' for this mid-length upper build. The other available rail I found was the JP modular rail using the extension, but that is a 2 piece system and the extension protrudes out in front the FSP, again, something I do not need and added weight. The Samson Evolution fit my needs exactly so I chose the EX 9. FWIW, Samson offers an extension for the Evolution as well.
This not a new rail by any means. There is another thread here documenting an installation back in 2010:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...mson+evolution
which is very in-depth and covers most of the specs of the rail. I was unable to find another user who had installed an Evolution EX on an upper and retained the FSP. I contacted Samson through email to ask if this was possible, and received no reply. I was able to find a post from Scott Samson on TOS stating that it was possible to achieve what I was proposing. So I went ahead and ordered the rail from Samson.
The upper used was a BCM BFH 16” standard profile mid-length gas system. This upper comes with a triangular end-cap that would obviously not fit the circular tube and would have to be removed. As well, the FSP would have to be removed and the bayonet lug ground off in order to achieve clearance inside the rail and preserve the free-floating characteristics of the rail. After removal of the flash hider, FSP, gas tube, and end-cap, I ground down the bayonet lug and retaining ears that housed the front sling loop. I used an electric grinding wheel very slowly and meticulously. After I was happy with the profile, I then refinished the exposed metal with Brownell’s AlumaHyde-II. Although the recommended set-up time for AlumaHyde is 1 week, I let it set overnight and then commenced installation, as I would not be touching or rubbing the painted areas and they would have plenty of time to dry underneath the rail when I was done.
I then removed the Delta ring in the standard fashion. The stock barrel nut is retained so I re-installed it onto the barrel/receiver after removing the Delta ring. Then the Evolution Rail was installed using the supplied 2-piece thermal bushing and hex screws to tighten the rail onto the thermal bushing. Samson sends easy-to-read installation instructions with the rail, but honestly after watching their installation video on YouTube, installation was straight forward. After placing the 2 pieces of the thermal bushing onto the barrel nut, the Evolution rail slides over the barrel and locks into position using grooves inside the rail that interlock with the bushing. I did have to re-torque my barrel nut to ensure proper alignment of the receiver rail and the top rail of the Samson, as initially they were slightly off-center. When I was happy with the alignment, I used a long riser over the junction of the top rails to ensure continuous alignment before tightening the 2 hex screws in the bottom of the rail to secure it into position.
After the rail was in position, I only needed to re-install my FSP and gas tube. The Evo rail has two cutouts on the bottom of the rail which are located adjacent to the positions of the gas block taper pins. These cutouts would allow manipulation of taper pins for gas blocks or gas piston assemblies, etc. After pinning the gas tube back into the FSP assembly, I realized my dilemma. With the rail torqued onto the upper receiver, I had little to no chance of lining up the gas tube into the upper receiver while re-installing the FSP. I really did not want to take the rail back off, so I improvised using a wire coat-hanger that was straightened out and followed the path I wanted the gas tube to take. The tip of the coat hanger was advanced from the upper receiver, through the gas tube hole/barrel nut, and down toward the muzzle. I then slipped the gas tube over the coat hanger and c